The Domination of Streetwear

By Eliza Rawson – Gone were the days of streetwear being affiliated with RnB artists, rappers and the culturally-driven individuals. Nowadays, if it has appeared on…

By Eliza Rawson

Gone were the days of streetwear being affiliated with RnB artists, rappers and the culturally-driven individuals. Nowadays, if it has appeared on social media or a celebrity is wearing it – it’s deemed mainstream and everyone wants their hands on it.

Supreme, Huf, Palace, North Face, Golf Le Fleur – the list of brands could go on. Streetstyle in 2018 is one of the most popular fashions styles out there currently. Developing in the 1970s, streetwear has been a part of the fashion world for years. Stussy was one major brand that developed the overall feel and looks of the style, developing brand printed t-shirts and hats. The development of Stussy resulted in the definition of what streetwear means in today’s society:

“A multi-faceted, sub-culturally diverse, Southern California lifestyle-based T-shirt brand and [mimicking] the limited feel of a high-end luxury brand…. those are the two most integral components of what makes a brand streetwear: t-shirts and exclusivity.” 

Adidas and Nike soon caught on with the trend in the 80s, being associated with sportswear mostly but soon affiliated to the hip-hop/street stereotype. In those days, streetwear was a subculture, a division from everyday clothing items that you would find on the high street. Then came the whereabouts of Supreme, starting up in 1994, the brand became known for their skateboard and authentic designs that were different to others out there. Supreme’s popularity soon became apparent, with their frequent social media posting, Thursday ‘drop days’ (new clothing releases) and collaborations with other brands such as North Face, Huf, Nike and Fila.

I spoke to an individual who is deeply involved in the streetwear scene. Luke Rowe, 23, has been collecting/wearing streetwear for the past eight years:

“I don’t feel that streetwear is a trend, it’s more of a category. People have been buying branded items for a long time but they have always been referred to something. For example, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada, have all been classed as high-end fashion, items that you’re more likely to see at fashion week. Streetwear is unique in itself, you could put on your basic Carhartt t-shirt and jeans and class it as streetwear, others will have their opinion and think the whole outfit has got to be street to refer to it as streetwear, but it’s all down to what you make it.”

The domination of social media, in turn, has resulted in there being no apparent ‘underground’ styles in society anymore, therefore rejecting subcultures as a whole. Theorist Dick Hebdige inferred back in 1979, the existence of style, whether that be fashion or music, in the media results in the style losing its ‘exclusivity’, no longer belonging to a particular subculture/group of individuals.

Stylist Lottie Volkova stated, “There are no subcultures anymore” when talking to The Guardian, inferring how the use of social media, in turn, has provided users with access to shoes, bags, hats, t-shirts, at the comfort of their home with a swipe and a tap of a button.

Luke added, “Social media is huge within the fashion industry, whether their famous or have a lot of followers if they’re posting the latest items, a lot more people will want it. Drake has been wearing a lot more Stone Island and because of that, it’s becoming a lot harder and more expensive to buy and get your hands on their products.”

High Snobiety, a leading online streetwear, lifestyle and media blog, wrote an insightful article regarding streetwear’s turn to the mainstream –

“Let’s get things straight: there’s absolutely nothing underground, niche, or counter-cultural about limited-edition sneakers, tees and hoodies anymore. If the Biebs is doing it, it’s mainstream.”

‘Drop Days’ are an inevitable part of streetwear. Brands like Supreme, for example, drop their latest items in store and online every Thursday, causing havoc worldwide. On the Supreme website, site traffic increases by 16,800%, with items selling out in a matter of seconds. Selling out seems to clarify the overall popularity of the streetwear brand, especially in Supreme’s case. Individuals queue outside stores to get their hands on the latest items, queuing for days in order to be the first ones in.

However, with the constant demand for wanting the best items, for some, getting your hands on an exclusive item and selling it on for hundreds of pounds more, has become a successful business. Luke’s obsession with brands such as Supreme is no more due to the popularity of the brand:

 “I remember buying online and in-store around 5/6 years ago and it was totally different. Now, you’ll be lucky to cop what you want due to how hyped the brand has come, to some people it’s become a business, people are picking up a jacket for £350 but can flip it for £900 due to the high demand. I stopped buying supreme because of how in-demand their items were, it was impossible to get your size and preference. I personally like Patta, Norse Projects, Our Legacy, they’re more low-key.”

High fashion has even jumped on board with the street style take over, with Louis Vuitton collaborating with Supreme in their Fall/Winter 2017 collection. The collaboration has created items such as a bag, trainers and a jacket (all for extortionate prices, however.) It seems that high brands are wanting to become involved with the next big thing in fashion to remain ‘current’ and trendy with young people.

When putting a poll out on my twitter account, I asked my followers what their favourite streetwear brand is to find out what is considered the most ‘popular’. With 37 votes, 46% voted for Supreme, 30% voted for Golf le Fleur (rapper Tyler the Creator’s clothing range,) 21% for Palace and only 3% for Huf. One user messaged me, stating that Carhartt, in their opinion, is considered another streetwear brand.

Streetwear always has and always will be a ‘mainstream’ fashion style. It’s a culture that most individuals are a part of yet some do not realise, even wearing a tracksuit, you could be classed as wearing streetwear. With that, social media is a key feature of the domination of streetwear, it seems that without the frequent use, streetwear wouldn’t be half as successful as it is currently.

Image: Eliza Rawson


Are Fashion Bloggers and Social Media Changing The Fashion Industry?

By Eliza Rawson – In the 21st century, everything we need is at the touch, swipe and click of a button. Flicking through a magazine to find the latest trends seems to be an…

By Eliza Rawson

In the 21st century, everything we need is at the touch, swipe and click of a button. Flicking through a magazine to find the latest trends seems to be an old-fashioned concept now when apps such as Instagram and Pinterest exist, giving users an endless portrayal of the bags and shoes of their dreams. Online fashion journalism (especially blogging) seems to be the ‘new-in’ thing at the moment, with fashion bloggers and influencers posting left, right and centre. Are these fashion influencers changing the meaning of the fashion industry?

Young influencers amass thousands of followers, dictating to them what the ‘in’ looks are, how to dress for your body, but also opening up the platform for more diverse content creators.

Fashion blogging kicked off back in 2007 when the fascination with social media apps soon became immensely popular. The ability to post photos on an app to share with the world was a concept which everyone wanted to be a part of. Instagram was founded in October 2010, generating over 800 million users to this date. The app is a central hub for fashion bloggers and influencers to post and share their daily outfits; often tagging ‘ootd’ (outfit of the day for all you unaware) creating flat lays and sharing their current favourite outfits. Now, fashion is everywhere we turn, Snapchat, Twitter, Pinterest, the list could go on. It seems that fashion was once an enclosed industry but now has become digitally embedded.

Back in the day, fashion was a sealed envelope, a gateway in which only the elite and fashion designers were involved with. Fashion shows were private and the trends being showcased were released to consumers months after being on the runway. Nowadays, catwalks for specific brands are live streamed on Facebook and Instagram, with Tommy Hilfiger live streaming their Gigi Hadid collection at London Fashion Week this year on Instagram to their thousands of followers.

Influencers are incredibly strategic about posting content, choosing the time of day when most people are online, and using popular hashtags to gain more likes and comments.

Gigi Gorlova, London based fashion blogger and designer, owner of Instagram account Gigiscloset’ and blog, started up her blog over four years ago and now to this date has 19.1k followers on Instagram, Gigi Said:

“To me, blogging is very personal, it’s a diary of my everyday fashion styling. Sometimes brands send you clothes and it’s fun trying to style a certain piece. For me, blogging helps me get clients as a freelance social media manager. It’s a great way to show off what you are about and if you are creative at your work.”

Because of how powerful the fashion industry has become online, brands owe much of their success to promoting their products through bloggers promoting their products online. Bloggers can get paid thousands just for showcasing a product through a photo and posting throughout their socials. Selena Gomez, for example, can earn up to £500,000 for each promotion post on her Instagram. Brands could do this through magazine advertising, but it would take more time and essentially more money; social advertising seems to be the only answer in this current digital world, offering instant access.

“I get asked to promote products often but sometimes the products do not suit my niche. I will not post about tooth whitening or any of those cliché products just for money. My niche is fashion and that’s what I’ll promote. I’ve promoted for Quiz, Motel Rocks and LaSula.”

Vogue released a very topical article in 2016, titled “Ciao, Milano!’s Editors Discuss the Week That Was”harshly shaming fashion bloggers as “Pathetic” and “Embarrassing”. Vogue writer Sally Singer stated,

“Note to bloggers who change head-to-toe, paid-to-wear outfits every hour: Please stop. Find another business. You are heralding the death of style”.

It seems that the popular fashion magazine that has been on the scene for over 123 years haven’t quite got their heads around how social media plays a vital role in the fashion industry in the 21st century.

With phones at your disposal every moment of the day, we are constantly logged onto social media platforms, unable to get away from the constant notifications. Back in the day, to get the latest news and features, one would have to visit a shop to collect a physical print, with some of these only being produced weekly or monthly.

However, it doesn’t necessarily mean to say that fashion magazines and the print industry are dead:

I personally read magazines but because they are only printed once a month I go to social media as I need more fashion inspiration daily. It’s a good idea for magazines to stay digital as well as print. I want both!” Gigi adds. Magazines still hold that appeal of holding a good quality, glossy magazine in your hands that nothing else beats. It produces monthly issues of the greatest fashion trends and celebrities that maybe hasn’t been covered on social media.

“Magazines aren’t going to disappear, people still like to have something tangible to browse – the book industry was predicted to collapse in the wake of the Kindle, but it has rebounded.” Bronwyn Cosgrave, a former features editor, says in British Vogue. (Above article).

It seems that the world is now tech-savvy, orientated around the use of social and digital media. Yes, social media has changed the fashion industry, making it current and constant 24/7. But the fashion industry lives for the publication of high-end magazines such as Vogue and Elle that it couldn’t possibly put these out of business for good.


If you fancy your hand at writing about your passions, student-related topics or subjects of global importance – why not write for the Ruskin Journal? Accepting new writers in August 2018 – send an email to to find out more or express your interest. Open to undergraduate and postgraduate students at Anglia Ruskin University.

Fashion You Can Really Splurge Your Student Loan on

By Eliza Rawson – There comes a time where you’re getting ready for a girls/guy/house night out, stood for hours in front of your wardrobe shouting “I HAVE NOTHING…

By Eliza Rawson

There comes a time where you’re getting ready for a girls/guy/house night out, stood for hours in front of your wardrobe shouting “I HAVE NOTHING TO WEAR”, I think people can relate here? With being a student and all, sometimes funds can be rather low, especially in times when you’re in need of a new outfit (because there’s only so many times you can wear ‘a nice top and jeans’.) But even if you are not a student, and your funds are tight this month: trying to find sites that are fashionable and affordable is tough. Even for your 9ams, you do not always want to look like you have just rocked up out of bed, you want to put a bit of effort in, maybe throwing in a bit of colour to lighten up the day.

The best way to manage your funds is to budget! Perhaps allow yourself to buy one clothing item a month, mix and match with what you own already, even borrow your friend’s clothes (that’s what they’re there for right?!) Also, take full advantage of student discount, you’re only a student for three years! Unidays and Student Beans are the best for giving you a variety of shops (even restaurants and days out) with big discounts and money off.

wooden coat hangers on clothes rail
Wooden coat hangers on clothes rail

The shops below are just a few of what’s best out there online for the best deals and prices to mix up your wardrobe and bring something new into your life without breaking the bank!

Miss Pap

Miss Pap provides you with everything you would ever need – heels, trousers, swimwear, handbags – the lot. What I love is that they have sections for everything, “Shoes from £5”, “Lounge From £6” and I especially love their recently new section, “Living Wage Wardrobe”, obviously the living wage at the moment is £7.50, so EVERYTHING in that section is £7.50, meaning you can create a full outfit for under £30! However – the site include a Large as being a Size 12 – which can be damaging in terms of body image, and currently the average size of a UK woman is a Size 16 and height is 5’3.

Pretty Little Thing

This is probably my favourite online retailer. The trends are always current and I think the quality is great for how much you pay. Again, they have sections for various occasions you might have going on in your life, such as: holidays, festivals, nights out or weddings. I feel that the site really relates with girls and their needs, for instance they have an “airport outfits” section, which did make me laugh, but it’s so relatable because it’s always the hardest thing finding something which you’d look stylish but comfy in for the airport! The outfit below is mine with both items coming from Pretty Little Thing. The trousers cost £15 and the top cost £10 which I think is great for a full outfit.  They’re both great items to be dressed up with heels or dressed down with trainers.


Miss Guided

Miss Guided has been around for years now, being one of the most successful online start up retailers out there; now having shops in London and concessions in Selfridges. Miss Guided is most renowned for their budget outfits and wide variety of items. Their items suit all, from petite to curve to tall. The sections are great on the site too, relating yet again to every girl’s problems, coming up with a “jeans and a nice top” section. I feel that a lot of online retailers cater more for females than males though, making it harder for guy’s to find outfits on a budget, which is an inherent problem with the industry in terms of diversity. But, Miss Guided have released a male section called Mennace, good on you Miss Guided!

Set of mans fashion and accessories
Stock image of menswear 


I think everyone loves ASOS, being another best online retailer out there . There are so many items, brands and trends that everything is all under one place with so much to choose from. The site attracts both male and females so it caters for all. ASOS have even created their own brand, with their items being at a relatively good price. ASOS Marketplace is another corporate brand, selling designer, ‘vintage’ clothing at cheaper prices. ASOS’ outlet section is jam-packed full of everything from trainers to jewellery to dresses, whether it be branded or not, you’re guaranteed to always find something in this section. They also have been praised for not photo-shopping out models stretch marks, wrinkles or other ‘imperfections’. In terms of diversity, they also feature an amazing range of female and male models in both gendered sections, and have a stunning plus size and maternity range – which is wonderful that they cater for all bodies.

So from dress-down Fridays to vintage chill on a Sunday, these online sites are able to cater to the student budget and make sure you are in keeping with the latest styles. Are there any other places that are at the top of your list? Let us know. Happy Shopping!

Image: Eliza Rawson & Adobe Stock Image License

Disclaimer: The Ruskin Journal takes no responsibility with what you do with your money or student loans. This is purely a suggestion list.

Instagram Business Accounts – How They Are Changing Fashion

By Sophie Taylor – There are more than 15 million registered business accounts on Instagram, providing online stores, independent companies, and online personalities…

By Sophie Taylor

There are more than 15 million registered business accounts on Instagram, providing online stores, independent companies, and online personalities an invaluable place for promotion, but is this threatening retail stores in our high streets?

According to online statistics, Instagram is estimated to have made $1.53 billion in global mobile ad venue last year. Sponsored pictures are amongst the many ways of making money on the site, with reality star Kylie Jenner making up to $400,000 per ad post. However, it’s not just celebrities able to profit from the social media domain; smaller followed business accounts are able to post sponsored ads, from themes of interior design to popular pictures of a pet, there are different ad revenue opportunities for a multitude of pages that make the site more and more business orientated.

My interview with interior blogger Sam, owner of the 20,000 followed Instagram business account @dove_cottage provided me with useful answers to how the site can act as a platform for promotion and pursuing individual ambitions, whilst also expanding the audience blog visits.

My Instagram focuses on home interiors, I share styling tips for people who are interested in design but maybe have a small budget or are renting their home or first-time buyers. It’s where it all started really, I wouldn’t have been able to do it if I hadn’t started an Instagram account. Being able to connect with people who have got similar interests to me has been totally invaluable, no one would have ever found my blog without it.”

So how does advertising on Instagram affect fashion? Recent years have seen the Instagram of various clothing stores take the site by storm, with teenagers more likely to buy their weekend outfits on their phones rather than visiting stores, meaning huge retailers such as Topshop are facing increasing competition from online shops that offer faster and cheaper products.

The Instagram’s of Missguided and Prettylittlething for example, have gained major popularity amongst teenagers; The growth of Missguided’s business increased more than 60% last year, with their daily stories, posts and ‘shop our Insta’ section that promotes their products to their 2.5 million followers. Marketing techniques such as the #babesofmissguided trend have seen 121,993 posts using the hashtag, as well as Prettylittlething using reality stars instead of professional models to advertise to a younger demographic. Reality stars such as Kourtney Kardashian and the cast of this year’s love island have appeared in collaborations with clothing stores that are dominating Instagram, arguably appealing to teenagers more than Topshop and Zara’s expensive catwalk based clothing.

When I asked Sam about her views on whether social media is becoming the only way to really reach out to people, she replies:

“Yes I do, I think’s it’s becoming the number one way. When I want to buy something I go on to a stores Instagram page and look through their tagged photos to see the products being used in real life which I think can offer me better than the website photos. I think it gives shoppers a much better experience and makes online shopping more enjoyable than shopping in town. Discount codes are always online too and with me having a baby, it just makes it so much more convenient for me.”

As Sam mentions, some clothing store’s Instagram accounts ‘tagged photos’ section includes real consumers pictured wearing the stores purchased clothing. Thus, they give buyers a more realistic depiction of the products considered, with clothing pictured on an array of body types and styled in various ways not pictured on the website. Upcoming clothing stores that are heavily Instagram focused such as In The Style, keep up to date with the digital age with their frequent use of Instagram to advertise in an aesthetically pleasing way, whilst incorporating Instagram stars into their products such as Tammy Hembrow’s range released with the popular clothing retailer. In The Style is yet to have a store on the high street, with purchases made online proving to be enough to create worldwide recognition.

As an increasing amount of consumers buying clothing online and social media becoming a platform to get users onto the websites of their businesses, high street retailers are called to question how they will find new ways to appeal online to their smartphone shoppers. Instagram is taking more of a central role in advertising than ever before.

Image Credit: Adobe Stock License